On tik tok we talk about “recessioncore”, to describe the return to the formal man who dominated the catwalks of the men’s a/w 2024 fashion shows
The progressive looks of the past editions have been set aside, in favor of a new elegance, far from post-pandemic comfortwear and conventional masculinity.
The men’s outfits proposed a classic but not nostalgic, minimal and substantial elegance, made up of clean lines and extra-long coats.
Stars on the catwalk, Korean pop-stars as special guests (see Prada), movie stars among the models, and singers of today or of the past involved in the musical accompaniment of the défilé .
Memorable was the fashion show by Lucas Bravo in the role of the serial killer of American Psycho, for Louis Gabriel Nouchi and the ageless elegance of Charlotte Rampling for Ami Paris.
The “recessioncore” then found confirmation also in the leading trends of the 103rd edition of Pitti.
Innovation focuses on the technical performance of the garment (see Alphatauri and Tombolini), on the characteristics of the fabric that determine substantial improvements in comfort, fit or areas of application; but they rediscover and favor clean lines and tailored cuts (Brunello Cucinelli).
Men’s fashion seems to embrace the idea of the “capsule wardrobe”, the “basic” pieces become “important”, the quality rises, versatility is essential and the combination of garments seems to suggest the idea of a rediscovered elegance and essential.
To complete the scene, both in men’s fashion weeks and in the setting of the da Basso fortress, creative and at times excessive streetwear, especially when compared to the rigor of the runways.
There were various skirt outfits for the men on the front row, from Robert Pattinson with a tweed skirt at the Dior show, to Lucien Laviscount in a pleated skirt at the Louis Vuitton show, and the eccentricity of streetwear colored the pages of the magazines fashion, offsetting a severe and severe “recessioncore”.
